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HAND LACED COWHIDE SHOULDER BAG WITH 19TH CENTURY HOMESPUN HEMP STRAP |
One of the things I like to do is make the things I need by hand. I would rather make my own winter hat or shoulder bag, than go out and by one. It's fun, and educational. I sell some of the products, barter with them or just give as gifts.
If you would like to try it, you will need some simple tools to start with. First of all you need to have an idea of what you would like to make. A fur hat or deerskin bag or something less primitive. Use your imagination or think of something you need.
DEERSKIN SHOULDER BAG |
Next you will need a couple of sizes of Glover's sewing needles. These have a chisel type point so they puncture leather. If you plan on working with thick leather , I would get a few of each size as they might break at some point. Next you'll need strong thread. The two I use are artificial sinew, which comes in rolls of varying lengths and thickness and is very strong or waxed linen (cotton) thread which is not as strong as the sinew but comes in white and off white . You can even find it in different colors if you look around. Some people prefer using all natural thread.
You will also want a sharp awl to make holes in thicker leathers. I use a very thin awl so I keep the holes to a very small size. You can get a very utilitarian awl or a more rustic one with an antler handle. Size matters in this more than handle type.
I know a few people who have a nifty device for spacing needle holes. A small wheel attached to a handle. The wheel has little knobs on it . When you roll this across the leather it leaves little indentations evenly spaced and that tells you exactly where your stitches go. Your sewing will be straighter using it. I don't know the name of the tool but I have seen it for sale in leather working catalogs.
Of course you will need a nice piece of leather or fur pelts. I sometimes buy leather on E-Bay but it's hard to tell the thickness or other characteristics from a photo, and I have been disappointed with the piece more than a few times. So I sent away to a leather company ( Weaver Leather) and they opened an account for me for free and sent me a thick catalog of leather working tools and many samples of leather, with a description of each as well as item numbers next to each piece. I can pull out the swatch and feel it for texture and thickness and see the true color before I buy it. The customer service people are very friendly and helpful too. I hit them with multiple questions before I buy anything.
After I figure out what I'm going to make, then I can concentrate on what to make it out of. If you are making a piece of clothing the leather or fur will need to be thinner and softer than if you are planning to make a hand or shoulder bag. This needs careful consideration, at least for me so I don't end up buying a piece of leather I have no use for. There is a rule in carpentry that goes " measure twice, cut once" . The same should apply here. Think about what you need and research types of leathers. Always ask questions. Consider the size and shape and I always try to allow for a change of plan by getting a piece that is larger than what I need. I might want to make 2 of whatever it is. It's more economical to buy a larger piece for multiple projects than to by smaller ones for individual products. If you buy leather from a catalog or online you also need to look into shipping costs.
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NORTHERN BLACK RACCOON SHOULDER BAG WITH 19TH CENTURY HOME SPUN HEMP STRAP |
Buying fur pelts is next. Make sure you get professionally tanned pelts. I buy mine on line from a great place in Montana called Glacier Wear. They have top quality pelts in varying grades and sizes and a nice selection of ready made products such as hats and mittens. They will gladly assist you with any questions. Here it is hard to gauge exactly what you are looking at. So I always talk to someone in customer service before I buy anything. You can also find a local taxidermist who might have tanned pelts for sale that you can look at first. Be sure not only to look at the thickness and color of the fur but check for bald spots or holes carefully. When fur is tanned, they stretch it a bit. You should do the same at home. Start by soaking the pelt in water for an hour or so or simply use a sponge to wet it well. Staple the pelt to a piece of plywood or something similar, starting on one side. Then carefully stretch it being sure not to let it tear.
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HEMP POUCH |
RED FOX FUR HAT |
When it is stretched a bit, staple the other side, keeping it taught. Let it stay that way until dry. Usually over night. Stretching the pelts will give you an extra 15 to 20% more surface area. Just use care when doing this that you don't rip the leather and you can get the staples out easily without damaging the pelt.
Keep in mind that if you plan to eventually sell any fur products, many people find them offensive and cruel. Most pelts come from the wild and are either shot or trapped, so there is a cruel aspect to it depending maybe on the hunter or trapper. I have listed many things for sale on E-bay and a handmade only website called Artfire.com. I have received several comments about dealing in dead animals and being a nasty person in general. Keep in mind that most people either eat meat or have leather shoes or belts. It's mostly the same. A fur pelt is a piece of leather with the fur still on.
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DEERSKIN POUCH |
Fur pelts , if sewn well will be very sturdy and stand up to rain and snow without worries. Just go over your sewing carefully and make sure it's strong. The sewing and the type of thread you use is the weak link. Everything I make is fully functional, not a decoration. It would be very difficult to explain how to actually sew in a blog, so you'll need to do some research and practice. Talk to people who know about sewing. Just keep it neat and keep the distance between the holes to about 1/4" or so. I usually start with the piece inside out, and sew the seams up from the inside. A piece of leather is easier than fur. The fur does not let you see where you are sewing much and it's very easy to go astray or stick yourself. I use a small piece of heavy leather to help push the needle through or a needle nose pliers to help pull the needle through after the leather is penetrated.
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WOVEN HEMP POUCH WITH HEMP DRAWSTRING |
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BOBCAT ARCERY QUIVER |
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WOVEN FLAX POUCH |
I make a variety of products for sale. Many types of draw string pouches, leather or fur shoulder bags, several fur hats made from beaver, raccoon, red fox and arctic fox pelts. I usually have matching shoulder bags and I use real 19th century homespun hemp, originally grain sacks woven by farmers wives in Canada to get the produce and grains to market, for straps. I cut the sacks into 2 1/2 " strips and then sew the edges up with waxed cotton thread, which blends in nicely with the color of the hemp. When hardware is called for, like buckles or "D" rings, I use hand forged iron. It adds a nice rustic touch. When our family goes on a hike my kids always find good looking feathers that I can use as a decoration on a hat or bag. To secure a flap on a bag I employ real deer or elk antler button or tines, which is the tip of an antler. I drill two small hols near the center and sew it in the body of the bag. Then make a small slit for a button hole. Keep in mind you can always make it larger later. Obviously leather stretches with use and over time. So make the hole a little on the small side. It can always be cut larger if it's too small or you can put a couple of stitches on the ends of the slit to make it smaller. Most things can be fixed or re sized after the fact.
The products I make are for sale . E mail me at wscheps@hvc.rr.com and I can send you photos and prices. If you want something custom I will need a 50% deposit so I can purchase the right leather or pelts. On average it takes 2-3 weeks to get the finished product. I also make and sell hand dipped beeswax candles. Look for instructions on how to make them in a later post along with many other topics. Be well and keep smiling.
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